High thai

A trip to the cinema this week to see The Departed. Fantastic. I went with Alice, a die-hard Scorsese fan, but I suspect not, like me, a Die Hard and Scorsese fan. She had suggested an early screening at the Ritzy in Brixton, which worked out very well: it is perhaps not a film to see after you've eaten.

We ate at Baan Thai, a smart but unassuming pad on Coldharbour Lane, and it was spot on. Exactly what you need from a thai, right down to the quirky English. Dumplings of "triangle vegetables" turned out to be basically thai versions of mini samosas, a generous array of them for about three quid, as well. Fish cakes were well textured and very tasty, lemongrass coming through strongly. A sizzling platter of decent quality beef and a very good red aubergine curry followed, as did a heap of "drunked" noodles. None lasted very long. My only quibble: a few too many sliced raw carrots (presumably "circle vegetables"), which cropped up somewhere on just about every dish. I half expected to find one in the wrapper instead of the chocolate that came with my coffee.

I love places like Baan Thai. They may have entirely predictable menus, but they prove it's possible to prepare familiar fare to a very high standard - and with a smile. No unnecessary fripperies. No pretensions to grandeur. No nonsense.

Baan Thai, 401 Coldharbour Lane, Brixton, SW9 8LQ. 020 7274 2020