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21/11/2006

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Ben Bush

The lamb was fine. It may have been a little overdone, but it's hard to tell as the room was indeed a little dark and the meat was covered with a good, deep sauce. Very tasty though, and a decent portion for the money. The major let-down for me was the gratin dauphinoise which came with it. I tend to cook this without any cheese, letting the essential cheesiness develop slowly by itself as the cream reacts with the garlic and onions (I'm salivating just thinking about it!). Here, they seemed to have gone to the other end of the scale, studdling the gratin with (I think) gruyere and then cooking it long and hard. The crispy result was a little overpowering - almost sickly - and while lamb can usually cope with a bit of this kind of accompaniment I think a place like this should be confident enough to offer up something with a bit more subtlety. Overall, though, very positive. A big thumbs up for the bar, although it might not be so pleasant on a busy Friday.

Mike

It's taken me days but the penny has finally dropped. Yes, he's really made the grade. But I'm not convinced his culinary spaceship quite knows which way to go.

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