I had lunch at Waterhouse the new sustainable sibling of Acorn House, on the Regents Canal, Dalston.
It's a funny location and they must be banking on weekend trade or that the area will up-and-come. The premises are sizable and today I was the only diner. The food is Italianate, Jamie-Oliver-ish, with the day's menu displaying summery lightness. I started with a selection of 'mezze', though I wouldn't have used that word for my selection of truffle salami, coppa ham and smoked mackerel. It was all ok, nothing to get excited about though. As a main I'd ordered 'Roast rabbit with couscous, saffron, honey and spices'. Woah . . . this was almost Elizabethan in its sweetness, my teeth sent an emergency telegram to my dentist. It was so sweet that any sense of the spicing or saffron was overwhelmed . . . my Sangiovese was left joyless. A gorilla's handful of raisins colluded with the honey to make it pretty inedible.
What a shame, as the location could actually be pretty nice. I sat outside next to the canal. It'd be good if they replaced the huge banquetting table I sat at with a few daintier spots. The wine list is pretty decent too - I spotted a few Pieropans including 'La Rocca' and the Colombare sweet wine. What's more, one has to laud it's eco-friendliness, something to which more restaurants should be paying proper attention.
The restaurant is also expensive - that rabbit dish was a whopping £17.50 (must be those newly discovered spices from the Indies). What price urban regeneration?
Waterhouse, 10 Orsman Rd, Dalston. N1 5QJ 020 7033 0123