True love pays

(This photo really has nothing much to do with this post. I just saw these cakes in the Hoxton Food Hall and thought they looked cool.)

So a couple of weeks ago, in a rare flush of organisation that was only tempered slightly by the rapid realisation that the world and his mother (or at least his girlfriend) had already had the idea, I went on the hunt for somewhere nice for dinner on Valentine's Day. Now this is something I've historically avoided, partly through (often) having no-one to take, but also because I can cook a bit and I was pretty sure I was going to get ripped off in a rammed restaurant trying to squeeze every last penny of starry eyed lovers. But this year, partly because I didn't think I'd have a functioning kitchen come the big day, I thought it was worth a stab and was delighted that an online booking via OpenTable seemed to have bagged us a table at Theo Randall.

Now I have never been to Theo Randall, but I knew it by reputation and I thought it would be about right: newly designed room, upmarket Italian fare, plenty of veggie options for Antonia etc etc. A bit like Locanda Locatelli (which is great) but somewhere new for both of us. Perfect.

And then I got the call. Let's charitably say that it was OpenTable and not the restaurant that called me because of a quirk of the online reservation system rather than the restaurant's embarrassment at what they were planning to charge us. "There's a set menu that evening Mr Bush, and it's £95 for three courses," said the nice lady. "Perhaps you'd like to have a look at the menu on the restaurant's website and give us a call back." Too right I would.

And it was true. Ninety-five quid. For three courses. I've been known to splash out on that much and more for a tasting menu but for three courses with precious little choice that has to be some sort of record. And from a generous selection of veggie mains and pastas on the à la carte menu we'd have been left facing the three words every vegetarian dreads at this time of year: wild mushroom risotto.

Fuck that. We're off to Magdalen.

Happy Valentine's Day.

x

Comments

[Chris]

There's a rather prescient article over on the Guardian food blog on this particular topic:

http://blogs.guardian.co.uk/food/2008/02/valentines.html

£95 for 3 courses is shocking isn't it. Enjoy Magdalen.

[Ben Bush]

Thanks Chris. I'd just finished adding a comment to it as it happens. This one's even better, if only for the first comment: http://blogs.guardian.co.uk/food/2007/10/the_food_of_love.html

Just been checking your site and you're the second person who's eaten well recently at the Prince of Wales in Putney. I'm strangely ambivalent about this as it used to be my local. A proper old smelly carpet London boozer with a big dog and overflowing ashtrays. Can't quite believe it's gone gastro, and I'm not altogether sure I approve! Will drag myself over there sometime and have a look...

[Douglas]

How miserable - but your post was very amusingly written.

[aforkfulofspaghetti]

This sort of p*ss taking is precisely why I've long since abandoned going out on Valentine's Day. I'm sure Magdalen was infinitely better than the £95 meal would have been. Not to mention cheaper...

[Ben]

It was lovely. Managed to spend a little more than £95 a head but that was everything to do with some rather gratuitous activity on my part at the Southern end of the wine list and nothing at all to do with any sharp practice on the menu, which was as small and perfectly formed as it ever is. The place was full (presumably across both sittings), everyone looked happy and no-one felt ripped off. Not that hard is it, now, is it?

[maria verivaki]

Fully agree with Ben Bush, love a good food story.

[Jill]

Ha, those are the three little words I dread at almost any time of year. And the plateful of cheesy mushroomy stodge that they often prefigure is generally not designed to put one in the mood for romantic frolics.

[Alastair]

Our menu, was, as usual £5, £15, £5. I can understand the urge to charge more. Some people just will pay anything. I just can't bring myself to do it...and actually, it's nice to have a full restaurant in the depths of February!

[schmoof]

I keep meaning to try Magdalen, based on this blog and your great reviews. Instead I tried El Faro on Valentine's day - no set menu, and we ate happily for £50 a head. Thanks for the review of it - I never would have known about it otherwise.